Deck boxes old style w/Tutorial

As much as I like the new style boxes, they just take up too darn much space in my "briefcase o' death" and so I went for the original style tuck boxes, but without the tucking top. Having a cover adds some issues because they get weak at the fold and ultimately the whole top is not neccessary for my personal use. I took a bunch of pictures as I made one so that people could see what I was doing and talking about.

First we have the tools. From left to right we have a tube of craft glue, a razor with a snap blade that facilitates quickly snapping off a dull blade and having a sharp one ready to go. Next is a metal ruler for scoring and cutting, a regualr ruler for all actual measuring, and finally my scoring tool. Beneath all that you see my green cutting mat. You can get by with some cardboard or plywood to cut upon.

Here are two views of the template I made. It really is all about the template. Do whatever you need to do to get it squared up and then measure the pattern. The rectangles labeled 1 & 3 are 65mm x 90mm. That will comfortably house the 2.5"x3.5" deck. #2 & #4 are 40mm wide and that accomodates a full faction deck with action cards unsleeved. If you sleeve your deck you will need to measure its hight and that will be the length you use where I have used 40mm dimensions. The bottom row #6 thru #9 are all 40mm deep which you will also want to be the same as your new dimension if you are sleeving the deck. The skinny #5 is a glue flap. To make the template I drew the pattern on it and then made a pin hole at all the vertices. I place the template over a fresh piece of material and punch pin holes.

TIP Notice that the holes are in 3 rows. Methodically proceed down each roll punching the holes. If you miss a hole you will find it is almost impossible to line the template up again and it will be quicker to grab a clean sheet and start over (Yes, this is the voice of hard-won experience).

 Next you want to score all lines. Ideally you want to just scrape the surface but not cut down into the material or you will find it weakened and seperating over time.




Next you want to cut all around the outside as well as the bottom flaps.

Then you want to fold all the creases.

Finally you want to fold over the glue flap and apply glue to it. Fold the other end around as shown and line up the bottom flap edges as shown. Don't worry about the other end as that won't be getting a top and to get everything lined up perfectly may be beyond your modeling skill (as it certainly is in my case!).



The scoring tool indicates where you want to make sure it lines up. At this point you want to let the glue dry for a bit. This is when I usually start working on the next box.

 

Then you want to trim the side flaps so they don't overlap.

 

 Then I apply glue to a bottom flap as shown and make sure I smear it to the fold edge so when I fold the other flap onto it it adheres nicely on the exposed edge.

Next I place a deck inside the box and press down firmly. I then make sure to leave the deck in the box as weight for a little while as the glue dries.

And that's it! For now I have just written the faction name on the side of the box and I lay them on their sides in my travel case. If I feel like getting fancy I will print off some labels and attach them, but first I want to make sure I like these. I believe this style box will allow me the room to add the Alexander v. Persia decks when they come out. I can hardly wait as I have been in on the play-testing and they will so rock!